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A note from the chef

How to serve bonito flakes — the chef's course

Portions, rituals and the jar trick — getting the most out of a bag that weighs almost nothing.

Bonito flakes are so light that portioning by eye misleads people in the generous direction. A serving is a pinch — a loose teaspoon at most. The flakes are dense protein with almost no fat, so a pinch is genuinely enough; the aroma does most of the pleasing anyway. Treats of any kind should stay under roughly a tenth of a cat's daily calories, and at these weights that is an easy budget to stay inside.

The bowl course: scatter classic cut over wet food while it is fresh from the fridge. The flakes soften into the meal and carry the smell upward — the single best trick for a cat who inspects dinner and walks away.

The hand course: hold out a thick cut ribbon and wait. Most cats take it delicately, some take your whole hand as a suggestion. Either way, hand-feeding is the fastest bonding shortcut in this business.

The finish: if the purée side of the menu is in stock, a slow-squeezed pouch after dinner adds moisture that dry-food cats chronically miss. From the tube, straight to the tongue — the closing ceremony.

Housekeeping: once a bag is open, regulars swear by decanting into a glass jar. It keeps the flakes crisp, stops the bag-crinkle from summoning the cat at 3 a.m., and makes the pinch ritual feel properly ceremonial.

More notes from the kitchen